10 Swimming Pool Design Tips

What To Consider When Planning A Swimming Pool

So assuming you have the resources and the space what should you consider before installing a swimming pool?

1. Firstly, will you use it?

Or at least use it enough to justify its existence. If your weather isn’t consistently warm and sunny are you hardy enough? Can you be bothered to drag a cover off the pool every time you want to use it?

2. Have you got the ideal site:

 Open but sheltered. Away from deciduous trees that will shed their leaves. With easy access to changing facilities and close enough to the house for convenience.

You will also need to connect services the site: water and electricity. How easy and costly will that be?

3. What will you use the pool for?

This will influence its shape and size. If it is just for a quick cool-off dip and a focal point to lounge around then a curved or shaped pool is a possibility.

If you want it for serious swimming exercise then it needs to be big enough, deep enough and ideally rectangular. This was a major factor that put me off. A pool less than 15 metres, 50 feet long, is not a good place to swim.

4. Are you prepared for the cost?

Not only of installation but also of on-going maintenance? Is that something you are prepared to do yourself, or will you employ the services of a maintenance company?

5. What will the impact be on the garden?

If visible from the house, will it be dominant and obtrusive?

A typical aqua blue swimming pool is pretty startling on a cold, grey day and looks out of place in a traditional country garden. It may be more inkeeping in a contemporary or Mediterranean setting.

6. You could consider a pool of a different colour

It doesn't have to be blue. A natural stone, soft terracotta or clay coloured lining may be far easier to incorporate in your garden design.

Will you use a traditional concrete construction, fibreglass or one of the various vinyl liners available? These are more frequently used today.

7. Natural or Chemical?

Have you considered a natural freshwater swimming pool or swimming pond http://www.naturalpoolsuk.com/ ? These are becoming far more popular.

They definitely sit more comfortably in a naturalistic setting, but this is not the only possibility. Contemporary designs can be stunning.

No chemicals are used because the water filtration is achieved by aquatic plants. Much nicer to swim in; the only disadvantage: cold water!

8.will IT impact on the value of your house?

A swimming pool may or may not add value. It can be a selling point or it can be a disadvantage.

Your swimming pool could put off a buyer that does not want the bother or cost of a swimming pool.

9. What will be the implications if you change your mind?

Removing or filling in a swimming pool can be as difficult and costly as installing it in the first place.

You can’t just fill it in and plant in that location. You will have drainage to consider so the structure of the pool usually needs to be removed and soil, a lot of it, imported to fill the hole.

10. So, if I haven't put you off

Find yourself a good designer and get a specification sheet drawn up by an independent swimming pool engineer to include all the plant machinery and the materials you want to use.

This will mean every contractor will be quoting for exactly the same thing, otherwise it will be impossible to get a like for like quote. 

This one bit of advice alone could save you tens of thousands of dollars alone.

Consider keeping the pool a constant depth. I would recommend  4ft deep (1.2m) This is deep enough to swim in without scraping your knees and will halve the cost of your pool both in construct costs and in heating bills. 

The only disadvantage to this is that you should have a ‘no diving policy’ for the kids, but they will soon get over this.

If you want an electronic pool cover you will need to keep the pool rectangular, but this is also better if you want to use the pool for exercise and games like water volleyball.

Using a darker colour on a rectangular pool can also help disguise its use when situated close to the house.  If planned well, it can be designed to look like a formal pond when not is use.

Avoid ‘Roman Ends’ or  putting the steps in the centre of the pool as this ruins the ability to do lengths when exercising. Instead put them to one side so you can do racing turns without them getting in the way.

Always ask to see examples of contractors previous work in real life situations and try and talk to other pool owners to share their experiences before you take the plunge.

Do the contractors belong to a professional body?  If they do, check to see if they are covered by an indemnity policy just in case they go bankrupt.  Some professional bodies cover the cost of finishing the pool for the original agreed price.

Consider:

USA The Association of Pool & Spa Professionals

USA Florida Swimming Pool Association

UK BSPF | The British Swimming Pool Federation

UK SPATA

AU SPASA | Swimming Pool and Spa Alliance

Finally find an expert you can really rely on to do a good job and deliver a swimming pool that meets or exceeds all your expectations.

Fruit Tree Specification & Rootstocks Guide

When specifying fruit trees, variety and rootstock are the two most important factors. Almost all fruit trees are grafted onto rootstocks. The rootstock is the most important factor in determining the vigour and eventual size of the tree.

The choice of rootstock will therefore determine the suitability of the tree for the position and the form in which you intend to grow it. Please find below a list of rootstocks and their characteristics, including mature height, spread, Planting distance, yield and form types.

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Apple

 

Apple:  M27  (Very dwarfing )

Requirements: Good soil conditions. Ground should be clear of weeds and grass. Permanent staking required. Water in dry conditions.

Mature height: 4-6ft (1.2-1.8m)

Spread: 5ft (1.5m)

Planting distance: 4-5 ft (1.2-1.5m) apart, 6ft (1.8m) between rows

Mature yield: 10-15lb (4.5-7kg)

Bearing age: 2 years

Suitable forms: Dwarf pyramid, centre leader, step-over

 

Apple:  M9  (Dwarfing )

Requirements
Good soil conditions. Ground should be clear of weeds and grass. Permanent staking required. Water in dry conditions.

Mature height: 6-8ft (1.8-2.4m)

Spread: 9ft (2.7m)

Planting distance: 8-10ft (2.4-3m) apart, 12ft (3.6m) between rows

Mature yield: 25-50lb (11-23kg)

Bearing age: 2/3 years

Suitable forms: Bush, pyramid, centre leader, cordon

 

Apple:  M26  (Semi-dwarfing )

Requirements: Can be grown in all reasonable soil conditions including grass orchards. Stake for the first 5 years.

Mature height: 8-10ft (2.4-3m)

Spread: 12ft (3.6m)

Planting distance: 8-12ft (2.4-3.6m) apart, 15ft (4.5m) between rows

Mature yield: 30-80lb (13.5-36kg)

Bearing age: 2/3 years

Suitable forms: Bush, pyramid, centre leader, cordon, minaret, espalier, container

 

Apple:  MM106  (Semi-vigorous )

Requirements: Suitable for a wide range of soils including grassed orchards and relatively poor soils. Stake for the first 5 years.

Mature height: 10-13ft (3-4m)

Spread: 13ft (4m)

Planting distance: 12ft (3.6m) apart, 15ft (4.5m) between rows

Mature yield: 50-100lb (23-56kg)

Bearing age: 3/4 years

Suitable forms: Half standard, bush, cordon, espalier, container

 

Apple:  MM111  (Vigorous )

Requirements: Suitable for a wide range of soils including grassed orchards and poor soils. Staking preferable but not necessary if planted as a one year old. Stake for first 3 years if planted as 2/3 year trees.

Mature height: 13-15ft (4-4.5m)

Spread: 15ft (4.5m)

Planting distance: 15ft (4.5m) apart, 20ft (6m) between rows

Mature yield: 100-400lb (45-180kg)

Bearing age: 4/5 years

Suitable forms: Standard, half standard, large espalier

 

Apple:  M25  (Very vigorous )

Requirements: Suitable for a wide range of soils including grassed orchards and poor soils. Staking preferable but not necessary if planted as a one year old. Stake for first 3 years if planted as 2/3 year trees.

Mature height: Over15ft (4.5m)

Spread: 20ft (6m)

Planting distance: 20ft (6m) apart, 25ft (7.5m) between rows

Mature yield: 200-400lb (90-180kg)

Bearing age: 5/6 years

Suitable forms: Standard

Pear

Pear:  Quince C  (Dwarfing )

Requirements: Good fertile soil. Ground should be clear of weeds and grass. Stake for at least the first 5 years and preferably permanently.

Mature height: 8-10ft (2.4-3m)

Spread: 9ft (2.7m)

Planting distance: 9ft (2.7m) apart, 12ft (3.6m) between rows

Bearing age : 3/4 years

Suitable forms: Bush, pyramid, centre leader, cordon, espalier

 

Pear:  Quince A  (Semi-dwarfing )

Requirements: Suitable for a wide range of soils including relatively poor soils. Stake for the first 5 years.

Mature height : 10-12ft (3-3.6m )

Spread: 12ft (3.6m)

Planting distance: 12ft (3.6m) apart, 15ft (4.5m) between rows

Bearing age: 4/5 years

Suitable forms: Suitable Forms: Half standard, bush, cordon, espalier, container

 

Pear:  Pyrodwarf  (Semi-vigorous )

Requirements; A new relatively dwarfing pear rootstock. Can be used for most soil conditions including relatively poor soil and grassed orchards. Stake for the first 5 years.

Mature height: Over 15ft (4.5m)

Spread : 15ft (4.5m)

Planting distance: 15ft (4.5m) apart, 20ft (6m) between rows

Bearing age; 4/5 years

Suitable forms: Half Standard

 

Pear:  Pyrus  (Very vigorous )

Requirements: Suitable for a wide range of soils including poor soils and grassed orchards. Staking preferable for the first 3 years.

Mature height: Over 20ft (6m)

Spread: 15ft (4.5m)

Planting distance; 20ft (6m) apart, 25ft (7.5m) between rows

Bearing age; 5/6 years

Suitable forms: Standard

Plum

Plum:  VVA-1  (Dwarfing )

Requirements; A new dwarfing rootstock for plums. Requires good fertile soil and ground cleared of weeds and grass. Stake for the first 5 years. Requires watering in dry conditions.

Mature height: 7-9ft (2-2.7m)

Spread; 9ft (2.7m)

Planting distance: 8ft (2.5m) apart, 12ft (3.6m) between rows

Bearing age: 3 years

Suitable forms: Bush, pyramid, small fan

 

Plum:  Pixy  (Semi-dwarfing )

Requirements: Requires good fertile soil and ground cleared of weeds and grass. Stake for the first 5 years. Requires watering in dry conditions.

Mature height: 8-10ft (2.4-3m)

Spread; 10ft (3m)

Planting distance; 10ft (3m) apart, 12ft (3.6m) between rows

Bearing age; 3 years

Suitable forms: Bush, pyramid, small fan

 

Plum:  WA-VIT  (Semi-dwarfing )

Requirements: A new semi-dwarfing rootstock for plums, damsons, apricots and peaches. Suitable for most soil conditions including relatively dry conditions. Stake for the first 5 years

Mature height; 9-11ft (2.7-3.3m)

Spread: 11ft (3.3m)

Planting distance: 10ft (3m) apart, 15ft (4.5m) between rows

Bearing age: 4 years

Suitable forms: Bush, Half Standard, Fan

 

Plum:  St. Julien A  (Semi-vigorous )

Requirements: Suitable for most soil conditions including relatively poor soil and grassed orchards. Stake for the first 5 years.

Mature height: 10-12ft (3-3.6m)

Spread: 12ft (3.6m)

Planting distance: 12ft (3.6m) apart, 15ft (4.5m) between rows

Bearing age: 4/5 years

Suitable forms; Half standard, bush, fan

 

Plum:  Brompton  (Very vigorous )

Requirements: Suitable for most soil conditions including poor soils. Stake for the first 5 years.

Mature height: Over 15ft (4.5m)

Spread: 15ft (4.5m)

Planting distance: 20ft (6m) apart, 25ft (7.5m) between rows

Bearing age: 4/5 years

Suitable forms: Standard

Peach

Peach:  VVA-1  (Dwarfing )

Requirements: A new dwarfing rootstock for plums. Requires good fertile soil and ground cleared of weeds and grass. Stake for the first 5 years. Requires watering in dry conditions.

Mature height: 7-9ft (2-2.7m)

Spread: 9ft (2.7m)

Planting distance: 8ft (2.5m) apart, 12ft (3.6m) between rows

Bearing age: 3 years

Suitable forms: Bush, pyramid, small fan

 

Peach:  Pixy  (Semi-dwarfing )

Requirements: Requires good fertile soil and ground cleared of weeds and grass. Stake for the first 5 years. Requires watering in dry conditions.

Mature height: 8-10ft (2.4-3m)

Spread: 10ft (3m)

Planting distance: 10ft (3m) apart, 12ft (3.6m) between rows

Bearing age: 3 years

Suitable forms: Bush, pyramid, small fan

 

Peach:  WA-VIT  (Semi-dwarfing )

Requirements: A new semi-dwarfing rootstock for plums, damsons, apricots and peaches. Suitable for most soil conditions including relatively dry conditions. Stake for the first 5 years

Mature height; 9-11ft (2.7-3.3m)

Spread; 11ft (3.3m)

Planting distance: 10ft (3m) apart, 15ft (4.5m) between rows

Bearing age; 4 years

Suitable forms; Bush, Half Standard, Fan

 

Peach:  St Julien A  (Semi-vigorous )

Requirements: Suitable for most soil conditions including relatively poor soil and grassed orchards. Stake for the first 5 years.

Mature height: 10-12ft (3-3.6m)

Spread: 12ft (3.6m)

Planting distance: 12ft (3.6m) apart, 15ft (4.5m) between rows

Bearing age; 4/5 years

Suitable forms; Half standard, bush, fan

 

Peach:  Krymsk 86  (Semi-vigorous )

Requirements: A new rootstock suitable for peaches, nectarines and almonds. Can be used for most soil conditions including relatively poor soil and grassed orchards. Stake for the first 5 years.

Mature height: n/a

Spread: n/a

Planting distance: n/a

Bearing age; 4/5 years

Suitable forms; n/a

 

Peach:  Brompton  (Very vigorous )

Requirements: Suitable for most soil conditions including poor soils. Stake for the first 5 years.

Mature height; Over 15ft (4.5m)

Spread; 15ft (4.5m)

Planting distance: 20ft (6m) apart, 25ft (7.5m) between rows

Bearing age: 4/5 years

Suitable forms; Standard

Nectarine

Nectarine:  VVA-1  (Dwarfing )

Requirements: A new dwarfing rootstock for plums. Requires good fertile soil and ground cleared of weeds and grass. Stake for the first 5 years. Requires watering in dry conditions.

Mature height; 7-9ft (2-2.7m)

Spread: 9ft (2.7m)

Planting distance: 8ft (2.5m) apart, 12ft (3.6m) between rows

Bearing age: 3 years

Suitable forms: Bush, pyramid, small fan

 

Nectarine:  Pixy  (Semi-dwarfing )

Requirements: Requires good fertile soil and ground cleared of weeds and grass. Stake for the first 5 years. Requires watering in dry conditions.

Mature height; 8-10ft (2.4-3m)

Spread: 10ft (3m)

Planting distance: 10ft (3m) apart, 12ft (3.6m) between rows

Bearing age: 3 years

Suitable forms: Bush, pyramid, small fan

 

Nectarine:  WA-VIT  (Semi-dwarfing )

Requirements: A new semi-dwarfing rootstock for plums, damsons, apricots and peaches. Suitable for most soil conditions including relatively dry conditions. Stake for the first 5 years

Mature height: 9-11ft (2.7-3.3m)

Spread: 11ft (3.3m)

Planting distance; 10ft (3m) apart, 15ft (4.5m) between rows

Bearing age: 4 years

Suitable forms: Bush, Half Standard, Fan

 

Nectarine:  St Julien A  (Semi-vigorous )

Requirements: Suitable for most soil conditions including relatively poor soil and grassed orchards. Stake for the first 5 years.

Mature height: 10-12ft (3-3.6m)

Spread: 12ft (3.6m)

Planting distance: 12ft (3.6m) apart, 15ft (4.5m) between rows

Bearing age: 4/5 years

Suitable forms: Half standard, bush, fan

 

Nectarine:  Krymsk 86  (Semi-vigorous )

Requirements: A new rootstock suitable for peaches, nectarines and almonds. Can be used for most soil conditions including relatively poor soil and grassed orchards. Stake for the first 5 years.

Mature height: n/a

Spread: n/a

Planting distance: n/a

Bearing age; 4/5 years

Suitable forms; n/a

 

Nectarine:  Brompton  (Very vigorous )

Requirements: Suitable for most soil conditions including poor soils. Stake for the first 5 years.

Mature height: Over 15ft (4.5m)

Spread: 15ft (4.5m)

Planting distance: 20ft (6m) apart, 25ft (7.5m) between rows

Bearing age: 4/5 years

Suitable forms: Standard

Apricot

Apricot:  VVA-1  (Dwarfing )

Requirements; A new dwarfing rootstock for plums. Requires good fertile soil and ground cleared of weeds and grass. Stake for the first 5 years. Requires watering in dry conditions.

Mature height; 7-9ft (2-2.7m)

Spread; 9ft (2.7m)

Planting distance; 8ft (2.5m) apart, 12ft (3.6m) between rows

Bearing age; 3 years

Suitable forms; Bush, pyramid, small fan

 

Apricot:  Pixy  (Semi-dwarfing )

Requirements: Requires good fertile soil and ground cleared of weeds and grass. Stake for the first 5 years. Requires watering in dry conditions.

Mature height; 8-10ft (2.4-3m)

Spread; 10ft (3m)

Planting distance; 10ft (3m) apart, 12ft (3.6m) between rows

Bearing age; 3 years

Suitable forms; Bush, pyramid, small fan

 

Apricot:  WA-VIT  (Semi-dwarfing )

Requirements: A new semi-dwarfing rootstock for plums, damsons, apricots and peaches. Suitable for most soil conditions including relatively dry conditions. Stake for the first 5 years

Mature height: 9-11ft (2.7-3.3m)

Spread; 11ft (3.3m)

Planting distance: 10ft (3m) apart, 15ft (4.5m) between rows

Bearing age; 4 years

Suitable forms: Bush, Half Standard, Fan

 

Apricot:  Torinel  (Semi-dwarfing )

Requirements: A new rootstock suitable for apricots. Can be used for most soil conditions including relatively poor soil and grassed orchards. Stake for the first 5 years.

Mature height: 10-12ft (3-3.6m)

Spread: 12ft (3.6m)

Planting distance; 12ft (3.6m) apart, 15ft (4.5m) between rows

Bearing age; 4/5 years

Suitable forms; Half standard, bush, fan

 

Apricot:  St Julien A  (Semi-vigorous )

Requirements: Suitable for most soil conditions including relatively poor soil and grassed orchards. Stake for the first 5 years.

Mature height: 10-12ft (3-3.6m)

Spread: 12ft (3.6m)

Planting distance: 12ft (3.6m) apart, 15ft (4.5m) between rows

Bearing age: 4/5 years

Suitable forms; Half standard, bush, fan

 

Apricot:  Brompton  (Very vigorous )

Requirements: Suitable for most soil conditions including poor soils. Stake for the first 5 years.

Mature height: Over 15ft (4.5m)

Spread: 15ft (4.5m)

Planting distance: 20ft (6m) apart, 25ft (7.5m) between rows

Bearing age: 4/5 years

Suitable forms: Standard

Cherry

Cherry:  Gisela 5  (Semi-dwarfing )

Requirements: Good fertile soil. Ground should be cleared of weeds and grass. Staking required for the first 5 years. Very sensitive to systemic herbicides such as Glyphosate the use of which should be avoided around young trees.

Mature height: 8-10ft (2.4-3m)

Spread: 10ft (3m)

Planting distance: 10ft (3m) apart, 12ft (3.6m) between rows

Bearing age: 3 years

Suitable forms: Bush, small fan

 

Cherry:  Colt  (Semi-vigorous )

Requirements: Suitable for a wide range of soils including relatively poor soils and grassed orchards. Staking preferable but not necessary if planted as a one year old. Stake for first 3 years if planted as 2/3 year trees.

Mature height: 12-15ft (3-4.5m)

Spread: 15ft (4.5m)

Planting distance: 15ft (4.5m) apart, 20ft (6.5m) between rows

Bearing age: 4/5 years

Suitable forms: Half standard, bush

 

Cherry:  F12/1  (Very vigorous )

Requirements: Suitable for a wide range of soils including poor soils and grassed orchards. Staking preferable but not necessary if planted as a one year old. Stake for first 3 years if planted as 2/3 year trees.

Mature height: Over 20ft (6m)

Spread: 20ft (6m)

Planting distance: 20ft (6m) apart, 25ft (7.5m) between rows

Bearing age: 5/6 years

Suitable forms: Standard

Medlar

Medlar:  Quince C  (Dwarfing )

Requirements: Good fertile soil. Ground should be clear of weeds and grass. Stake for at least the first 5 years and preferably permanently.

Mature height; 8-10ft (2.4-3m)

Spread: 9ft (2.7m)

Planting distance: 9ft (2.7m) apart, 12ft (3.6m) between rows

Bearing age: 3/4 years

Suitable forms: Bush, pyramid, centre leader, cordon, espalier

 

Medlar:  Quince A  (Semi-dwarfing )

Requirements: Suitable for a wide range of soils including relatively poor soils. Stake for the first 5 years.

Mature height: 10-12ft (3-3.6m )

Spread: 12ft (3.6m)

Planting distance: 12ft (3.6m) apart, 15ft (4.5m) between rows

Bearing age; 4/5 years

Suitable forms: Suitable Forms: Half standard, bush, cordon, espalier, container

 

Medlar:  Pyrodwarf  (Semi-vigorous )

Requirements; A new relatively dwarfing pear rootstock. Can be used for most soil conditions including relatively poor soil and grassed orchards. Stake for the first 5 years.

Mature height: Over 15ft (4.5m)

Spread: 15ft (4.5m)

Planting distance: 15ft (4.5m) apart, 20ft (6m) between rows

Bearing age: 4/5 years

Suitable forms: Half Standard

 

Medlar:  Pyrus  (Very vigorous )

Requirements: Suitable for a wide range of soils including poor soils and grassed orchards. Staking preferable for the first 3 years.

Mature height: Over 20ft (6m)

Spread: 15ft (4.5m)

Planting distance; 20ft (6m) apart, 25ft (7.5m) between rows

Bearing age: 5/6 years

Suitable form: Standard

 

Medlar:  Crataegus  (Semi-dwarfing )

Requirements: Hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna) is commonly used as a rootstock for medlars. Suitable for a wide range of soils including grassed orchards and relatively poor soils. Stake for the first 5 years.

Mature height: 10-12ft (3-3.6m )

Spread: 15ft (4.5m)

Planting distance: 15ft (4.5m) apart, 20ft (6.5m) between rows

Bearing age: 3/4 years

Suitable forms; Bush, half standard

Quince

Quince:  Quince C  (Dwarfing )

Requirements: Good fertile soil. Ground should be clear of weeds and grass. Stake for at least the first 5 years and preferably permanently.

Mature height: 8-10ft (2.4-3m)

Spread: 9ft (2.7m)

Planting distance: 9ft (2.7m) apart, 12ft (3.6m) between rows

Bearing age: 3/4 years

Suitable forms: Bush, pyramid, centre leader, cordon, espalier

 

Quince:  Quince A  (Semi-dwarfing )

Requirements: Suitable for a wide range of soils including relatively poor soils. Stake for the first 5 years.

Mature height: 10-12ft (3-3.6m )

Spread: 12ft (3.6m)

Planting distance: 12ft (3.6m) apart, 15ft (4.5m) between rows

Bearing age
4/5 years

Suitable forms
Suitable Forms: Half standard, bush, cordon, espalier, container

 

Quince:  Pyrus  (Very vigorous )

Requirements: Suitable for a wide range of soils including poor soils and grassed orchards. Staking preferable for the first 3 years.

Mature height: Over 20ft (6m)

Spread: 15ft (4.5m)

Planting distance: 20ft (6m) apart, 25ft (7.5m) between rows

Bearing age: 5/6 years

Suitable forms; Standard

Almond

Almond:  St Julien A  (Semi-vigorous )

Requirements: Suitable for most soil conditions including relatively poor soil and grassed orchards. Stake for the first 5 years.

Mature height: 10-12ft (3-3.6m)

Spread: 12ft (3.6m)

Planting distance: 12ft (3.6m) apart, 15ft (4.5m) between rows

Bearing age: 4/5 years

Suitable forms: Half standard, bush, fan

Bullace

Bullace:  VVA-1  (Dwarfing )

Requirements: A new dwarfing rootstock for plums. Requires good fertile soil and ground cleared of weeds and grass. Stake for the first 5 years. Requires watering in dry conditions.

Mature height: 7-9ft (2-2.7m)

Spread: 9ft (2.7m)

Planting distance: 8ft (2.5m) apart, 12ft (3.6m) between rows

Bearing age: 3 years

Suitable forms: Bush, pyramid, small fan

 

Bullace:  Pixy  (Semi-dwarfing )

Requirements: Requires good fertile soil and ground cleared of weeds and grass. Stake for the first 5 years. Requires watering in dry conditions.

Mature height: 8-10ft (2.4-3m)

Spread: 10ft (3m)

Planting distance: 10ft (3m) apart, 12ft (3.6m) between rows

Bearing age: 3 years

Suitable forms: Bush, pyramid, small fan

 

Bullace:  WA-VIT  (Semi-dwarfing )

Requirements: A new semi-dwarfing rootstock for plums, damsons, apricots and peaches. Suitable for most soil conditions including relatively dry conditions. Stake for the first 5 years

Mature height; 9-11ft (2.7-3.3m)

Spread: 11ft (3.3m)

Planting distance: 10ft (3m) apart, 15ft (4.5m) between rows

Bearing age: 4 years

Suitable forms: Bush, Half Standard, Fan

 

Bullace:  St Julien A  (Semi-vigorous )

Requirements: Suitable for most soil conditions including relatively poor soil and grassed orchards. Stake for the first 5 years.

Mature height; 10-12ft (3-3.6m)

Spread; 12ft (3.6m)

Planting distance: 12ft (3.6m) apart, 15ft (4.5m) between rows

Bearing age: 4/5 years

Suitable forms: Half standard, bush, fan

 

Bullace:  Brompton  (Very vigorous )

Requirements: Suitable for most soil conditions including poor soils. Stake for the first 5 years.

Mature height: Over 15ft (4.5m)

Spread: 15ft (4.5m)

Planting distance: 20ft (6m) apart, 25ft (7.5m) between rows

Bearing age: 4/5 years

Suitable forms: Standard

Cherry Plum

Cherry Plum:  VVA-1  (Dwarfing )

Requirements: A new dwarfing rootstock for plums. Requires good fertile soil and ground cleared of weeds and grass. Stake for the first 5 years. Requires watering in dry conditions.

Mature height: 7-9ft (2-2.7m)

Spread: 9ft (2.7m)

Planting distance: 8ft (2.5m) apart, 12ft (3.6m) between rows

Bearing age: 3 years

Suitable forms: Bush, pyramid, small fan

 

Cherry Plum:  Pixy  (Semi-dwarfing )

Requirements: Requires good fertile soil and ground cleared of weeds and grass. Stake for the first 5 years. Requires watering in dry conditions.

Mature height: 8-10ft (2.4-3m)

Spread: 10ft (3m)

Planting distance: 10ft (3m) apart, 12ft (3.6m) between rows

Bearing age: 3 years

Suitable forms: Bush, pyramid, small fan

 

Cherry Plum:  WA-VIT  (Semi-dwarfing )

Requirements; A new semi-dwarfing rootstock for plums, damsons, apricots and peaches. Suitable for most soil conditions including relatively dry conditions. Stake for the first 5 years

Mature height: 9-11ft (2.7-3.3m)

Spread: 11ft (3.3m)

Planting distance: 10ft (3m) apart, 15ft (4.5m) between rows

Bearing age: 4 years

Suitable forms: Bush, Half Standard, Fan

 

Cherry Plum:  St Julien A  (Semi-vigorous )

Requirements: Suitable for most soil conditions including relatively poor soil and grassed orchards. Stake for the first 5 years.

Mature height: 10-12ft (3-3.6m)

Spread: 12ft (3.6m)

Planting distance: 12ft (3.6m) apart, 15ft (4.5m) between rows

Bearing age: 4/5 years

Suitable forms: Half standard, bush, fan

 

Cherry Plum:  Brompton  (Very vigorous )

Requirements: Suitable for most soil conditions including poor soils. Stake for the first 5 years.

Mature height: Over 15ft (4.5m)

Spread: 15ft (4.5m)

Planting distance: 20ft (6m) apart, 25ft (7.5m) between rows

Bearing age: 4/5 years

Suitable forms: Standard

Damson

Damson:  VVA-1  (Dwarfing )

Requirements: A new dwarfing rootstock for plums. Requires good fertile soil and ground cleared of weeds and grass. Stake for the first 5 years. Requires watering in dry conditions.

Mature height: 7-9ft (2-2.7m)

Spread: 9ft (2.7m)

Planting distance: 8ft (2.5m) apart, 12ft (3.6m) between rows

Bearing age: 3 years

Suitable forms: Bush, pyramid, small fan

 

Damson:  Pixy  (Semi-dwarfing )

Requirements: Requires good fertile soil and ground cleared of weeds and grass. Stake for the first 5 years. Requires watering in dry conditions.

Mature height: 8-10ft (2.4-3m)

Spread: 10ft (3m)

Planting distance: 10ft (3m) apart, 12ft (3.6m) between rows

Bearing age: 3 years

Suitable forms; Bush, pyramid, small fan

 

Damson:  WA-VIT  (Semi-dwarfing )

Requirements: A new semi-dwarfing rootstock for plums, damsons, apricots and peaches. Suitable for most soil conditions including relatively dry conditions. Stake for the first 5 years

Mature height: 9-11ft (2.7-3.3m)

Spread: 11ft (3.3m)

Planting distance: 10ft (3m) apart, 15ft (4.5m) between rows

Bearing age: 4 years

Suitable forms: Bush, Half Standard, Fan

 

Damson:  St Julien A  (Semi-vigorous )

Requirements: Suitable for most soil conditions including relatively poor soil and grassed orchards. Stake for the first 5 years.

Mature height: 10-12ft (3-3.6m)

Spread: 12ft (3.6m)

Planting distance: 12ft (3.6m) apart, 15ft (4.5m) between rows

Bearing age: 4/5 years

Suitable forms: Half standard, bush, fan

 

Damson:  Brompton  (Very vigorous )

Requirements: Suitable for most soil conditions including poor soils. Stake for the first 5 years.

Mature height: Over 15ft (4.5m)

Spread: 15ft (4.5m)

Planting distance: 20ft (6m) apart, 25ft (7.5m) between rows

Bearing age: 4/5 years

Suitable forms: Standard

Crab Apple

Crab Apple:  M27  (Very dwarfing )

Requirements: Good soil conditions. Ground should be clear of weeds and grass. Permanent staking required. Water in dry conditions.

Mature height; 4-6ft (1.2-1.8m)

Spread: 5ft (1.5m)

Planting distance: 4-5 ft (1.2-1.5m) apart, 6ft (1.8m) between rows

Mature yield: 10-15lb (4.5-7kg)

Bearing age: 2 years

Suitable forms: Dwarf pyramid, centre leader, step-over

 

Crab Apple:  M9  (Dwarfing )

Requirements: Good soil conditions. Ground should be clear of weeds and grass. Permanent staking required. Water in dry conditions.

Mature height; 6-8ft (1.8-2.4m)

Spread: 9ft (2.7m)

Planting distance: 8-10ft (2.4-3m) apart, 12ft (3.6m) between rows

Mature yield; 25-50lb (11-23kg)

Bearing age: 2/3 years

Suitable forms: Bush, pyramid, centre leader, cordon

 

Crab Apple:  M26  (Semi-dwarfing )

Requirements: Can be grown in all reasonable soil conditions including grass orchards. Stake for the first 5 years.

Mature height: 8-10ft (2.4-3m)

Spread: 12ft (3.6m)

Planting distance: 8-12ft (2.4-3.6m) apart, 15ft (4.5m) between rows

Mature yield: 30-80lb (13.5-36kg)

Bearing age: 2/3 years

Suitable forms; Bush, pyramid, centre leader, cordon, minaret, espalier, container

 

Crab Apple:  MM106  (Semi-vigorous )

Requirements: Suitable for a wide range of soils including grassed orchards and relatively poor soils. Stake for the first 5 years.

Mature height; 10-13ft (3-4m)

Spread: 13ft (4m)

Planting distance: 12ft (3.6m) apart, 15ft (4.5m) between rows

Mature yield: 50-100lb (23-56kg)

Bearing age; 3/4 years

Suitable forms; Half standard, bush, cordon, espalier, container

 

Crab Apple:  MM111  (Vigorous )

Requirements: Suitable for a wide range of soils including grassed orchards and poor soils. Staking preferable but not necessary if planted as a one year old. Stake for first 3 years if planted as 2/3 year trees.

Mature height: 13-15ft (4-4.5m)

Spread: 15ft (4.5m)

Planting distance: 15ft (4.5m) apart, 20ft (6m) between rows

Mature yield: 100-400lb (45-180kg)

Bearing age: 4/5 years

Suitable forms: Standard, half standard, large espalier

 

Crab Apple:  M25  (Very vigorous )

Requirements: Suitable for a wide range of soils including grassed orchards and poor soils. Staking preferable but not necessary if planted as a one year old. Stake for first 3 years if planted as 2/3 year trees.

Mature height : Over15ft (4.5m)

Spread: 20ft (6m)

Planting distance: 20ft (6m) apart, 25ft (7.5m) between rows

Mature yield: 200-400lb (90-180kg)

Bearing age: 5/6 years

Suitable forms: Standard

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Builder or Landscaper! ….But Which is Better?

I came across a very interesting blog by Garden Design Lisa Cox this week in which she laments the insistence of clients, to use their own builders for the garden, rather than getting a specialist landscape contractor involved.

Lisa believes that “landscaping is a completely different discipline to a house building project.” and to a certain extent this is true, but when it come to the hard landscape construction, I would be just as happy to employ a good builder, as I would a good landscaper.

The construction of walls, paving and steps are the same in both house and garden, decks and pergolas, are comparable to laying floor and roof joist and even pond construction is similar to tanking a basement or cellar.

Lisa is not alone in this view, as many garden designers share this belief, but some of them don’t appreciate that most, if not all the problems they experience using builders, boils down to their inability, or lack of training, to communicate the construction process and detailing sufficiently.

Very few garden design courses cover professional practice in anyway near enough detail so that students can go out and write sufficiently detailed contracts.

At the Oxford College of Garden Design, we were so worried about this, that we ended up writing our own model specification document, which has now been adopted as the industry standard.

We have just donated it to the Society of Garden Designers in the hope that they may finally start taking some responsibility for garden design education and insist that courses teach specification writing properly and to a minimum standard.

As for Lisa; she does produce both construction detail and a specification document as part of her contract documentation.  May be as she says, she has been unlucky with her builders.

One thing I would say is that the landscapers profession does tend to be less chauvinistic and sexists and may be Lisa was unfortunate enough to run into some dinosaurs who believe women should be in the home and not on the building site……….But that’s a discussion for another time!

Do visit Lisa Cox’s website and also subscribe to her excellent blog

Are You An Environmentally Responsible Designer?

I was recently involved in a discussion on LinkedIn regarding the specification of non locally sourced materials.

Is it just me? or does it strikes you as odd,  that some of us are specifying materials which have to be transported 1000’s miles across the globe,  just to satisfy a whim!

Ignoring the aesthetic argument of genius loci (spirit of place) for a moment, aren’t we as landscape architects, supposed to care about our environment and make responsible choices?

With oil prices again, heading towards the $100 a barrel and the kick starting of the global economy likely to drive prices to $200 within a few years, shouldn’t we setting an example?

Specifications for Garden Designer Pt 3

The relationship between drawn and written information

On the smallest of schemes, annotated details may be all that is necessary and putting specification and drawing together may also assist the contractor.

However, on larger projects there is a danger that the specification will become dispersed onto several drawings, with repetition and contradictions creeping in. To avoid this, it is recommended that all the specification is found in one place. The drawn details can then linked to the appropriate specification description by systematic cross referencing, using the specifications own clause numbers.

This then leaves the question of the more general information such as the quality of topsoil or the strength of mortar? It is rarely adequate to leave such details to the expertise and discretion of the chosen contractor. In order to provide a professional service to your client, it often requires at least a few pages of specification separate from the drawings attached to the planting schedules, or the letter of invitation to tender.

An imperfect solution

I have touched on some of the obstacles which confront the designer and the contractor when faced with agreeing and achieving the desired standards on site;

• the need for reasonable financial certainty without being too restrictive,
• the huge amount of technical and contractual knowledge required;
  
• the designers’ time needed to tie up the more important loose ends,
  
• the absence of a simple appropriate standard form of contract.
  

Few projects are standard. Most are unique ‘prototypes’ designed and detailed from scratch.
Using an identical specification on every project, is therefore not only inappropriate, but may also be dangerous.

The concept of a ‘model’ specification is rather different from a standard solution because, the ‘model’ specification is designed to be edited by the designer to remove all extraneous information and to insert any additional information the particular project requires. The result is a tailor made document which should help the contractor.

Producing a project specification takes time and eats into the fee but the time is reduced with practice. No specification can be totally comprehensive. The designer’s decision on what to put in and what to leave out is a matter of judgement. That judgement will be made based on several factors such as the complexity of the project, the known competence of the contractor and whether the designer will be visiting site during the construction phase. Specification writing tries to be exact but in practice is an imprecise art.

A ‘model’ specification

The essentials of a ‘model’ specification are three-fold:
First it provides a familiar ‘structure’ within which every subject has its logical place.
Finding the appropriate instructions becomes quicker and easier because of this.
Secondly it can provide a check list of subjects which may need the designer’s attention. The designer can decide either to delete the subject as inappropriate or to include it with or without amendment.
Finally, by offering the designer a model clause the designer has guidance on written style and technical content.
I am sure that many designers have heard of the NBS Landscape Specification or the more modest publication “Specification Writing for Garden Design”(2) These model specifications can provide help and much needed technical guidance for the hard pressed Garden Designer. Writing a specification from scratch is a very daunting task; using a model specification makes that task considerably easier.

Even the best project specification and drawings in the world will not produce high quality work from a poor contractor. Things are less likely to go wrong with a good contractor. So every designer’s priority should be to assemble a list of good local contractors.
Then, provide them with all that essential specification information in writing by one means or another so that a proper price is tendered. Things are less likely to go wrong if the contractor has tendered a realistic price and is in possession of all the relevant information from the start. If things do go wrong, you and your client are better protected if the required quality is defined clearly and concisely.

Specifications for Garden Designer Pt 2

Most designers find specification writing a necessary evil.

Is it even necessary?

In a limited number of cases a formal specification document is probably not needed provided the essential information is given to the contractor in some other written form.

The two types of information

The written information traditionally included in a specification is divided into two main categories –the contractual obligations commonly known as the Preliminaries and General Conditions (the quality of workmanship and materials). Essential content of the Preliminaries which are vital to most projects are the start and finish dates, insurance and health and safety requirements. There are, of course other things which may need to be agreed such as the protection of existing trees, the arrangement of stage payments for work completed or the limitation of working hours, but these matters are often partly covered in a standard form of contract such as those issued by the JCLI, JCT.

The problem is that none of these standard forms of contract is entirely appropriate for small garden projects and even when they are used, they are usually completed after negotiations have taken place and a price agreed. Vital information such as the examples given above is needed before the contractor can tender a firm price. The designer is therefore left with the need to confirm such matters in writing at the beginning of the tendering process.

The options for defining quality

Before attempting to answer the above, let us first consider the question of quality. Unlike contractual and administrative matters, quality is very much more difficult to define. One way is to specify a brand name, but this may financially restrict the contractor unnecessarily.

Another method is to refer to Standards, published by the British Standards Institute or to other standards such as the National Plant Specification. Incorporating another standard by reference is often the most comprehensive and fool-proof method. However this requires a degree of knowledge about the content of those standards, both by the designer and the contractor and this is not always available.

Thirdly, the designer may write a description of quality themselves. To do so, requires practice and the development of a concise and an unambiguous style of writing and requires an depth of knowledge and skill that only the most accomplished parishioners should attempt.

In a limited number of instances, the most direct method of controlling quality is a reference to an agreed sample. This approach can be particularly appropriate for the appearance of hard landscape features like paving or walls.

The sample may be one which is constructed on site by the contractor prior to the start of the main work, or a previously constructed project preferably by the same craftsman. The advantage of a sample is that the client can be fully involved and can understand exactly what they are getting right from the start of the contract.

The use of samples

allows the contractor and his craftsmen to contribute to the creative process and gives them a positive involvement which not only draws on the contractors’ expertise but raises the craftsmen’s commitment and morale.

Monitoring the performance of the contractor is also simplified by making a direct comparison between what is built and the agreed sample.
So not every specification for quality depends solely on a long written description, but, given that there are several possible approaches to specifying quality, all of them in the end will require a degree of written clarification.

Q&A
Do you always right a specification?

Do you use a 'Model Specification' or do you write your own clauses?

Please let me know I'm always interested in you feed back and comments

Specifications for Garden Designer Pt 1

The importance of a Specification

Contractual problems can arise on any project what ever its size. However, the larger and more complex a project the more scope there is for arguments with the Contractor because the amount of money at stake is potentially larger.

The Client who is faced with additional , unexpected and perhaps avoidable costs is not going to be pleased and may hold the Designer liable. The way to avoid argument is to produce clear "documents", i.e. drawings, schedules, specifications and instructions, so that your Client, all the Tenderers' and the appointed Contractor fully understand your design intentions.

What a Specification is

The Specification is a written description of requirements. On a small, simple project it may be possible to cover the necessary information by writing specification notes on the drawing. On most contracts a separate document is usually necessary.

For convenience the Specification is normally divided into two sections. The first section deals with administrative matters and is commonly called the Preliminaries. The second section defines the quality of workmanship, materials and plants required.

The Specification should be used to define quality and sequence of work etc. while the drawing is best for defining shape, size and location.

Few designers bother with specification writing and those that do, often don’t fully understand the full legal implications of this document.

In this litigious world, sooner or later one of us is going be sued and the line between bankruptcy and survival could well be a comprehensively written specification.

The Specification and its relationship to the Contract

You should always advise your Client to enter into a written Contract . Any Specification should be one of the "contract documents". The Contract is between your Client and the Landscape Contractor. You, as Designer, are not a party to the contract although your role as agent for your Client should be defined in the Contract.

Model Specifications

At the Oxford College of Garden Design we have written are own ‘Model Specification’ published by Packard Publishing which has been widely adopted as the industry standard.

Aimed at novice and professional garden designers, this work book explains a method of producing instructions for garden design work which can be tailored to an individual designer's current project.

It has been developed over many years and most importantly is thoroughly tried and tested. It has been kept deliberately brief and is flexible enough to allow designers to expand or condense it to suit their needs, and to allow use of their favourite products and plants.
Students and newly-qualified garden designers will find the model specification particularly useful both as a contract document and as a technical check-list; it can be used on the smallest projects where the specification clauses are annotated directly on drawings or plans or as an independent document.

The overall format assumes a designer is acting as an independent consultant and not as an employee or partner of a contractor offering a package design and build service.

My Concerns!

What worries me is that specification in the UK is often taught by tutors with a limited understanding of the legal implications or worse still, by former contractors that often have a very biased attitude to specifications and see them at little more than a nuisance.

Making a specification short and simple yet comprehensive enough to avoid ambiguity is extremely difficult. Those that advocate writing your own specification can not possibly expect students to have enough skill and understanding of the subject to prepare documents that are legally water tight? Yet this is exactly what is happening today in many courses across the UK.

Your comments and feedback are always welcome